Zeus gets the gold for quality and value
BY HOLLY HERRICK
Of The Post and Courier Staff

With the 2004 Summer Olympics scheduled to begin next week in Athens, eating Greek food served in a new Greek restaurant named after a legendary Greek god struck me as a grand idea. And grand it was.

Nearly everything (with the singular exception of price) about Zeus Grill and Seafood was of epic proportion. The portions were gargantuan, and the food was tasty and moderately priced (entrees average between $9 and $16). This yielded Olympian-sized value.

Add the vastness of the sprawling space, interrupted only by dividers topped with greenery and a sea of attractive fish tanks, and Zeus' plans for Herculean success become apparent.

There is, after all, an ever-expanding pool of residents in Mount Pleasant, many of them families with a keen eye on value who are seeking a good, filling meal.

The story behind the Greek family that owns the restaurant is the stuff of American dreams. Father and son owners, Athan and Spiro Fokas, are part of a small, local Greek restaurant dynasty that started when Old Towne Grill and Seafood opened downtown more than 30 years ago.

Spiro Fokas opened it with fellow Greek native and brother-in-law Steve Federigos. Athan cut his teeth at the Old Towne Grill and Seafood. He later opened North Towne Grill and Seafood with Maki Nikatos. Zeus reflects both restaurants' success and Athan's belief that Mount Pleasant needed a Greek dining establishment.

So, Zeus came to be. The restaurant has a congenial, neighborly feel about it. From the outside, the attractive building looks a smidgeon plastic (save some Parthenon-esque columns), but less so than the standard restaurant designs one sees along just about any strip mall-rich road that races its way through suburbia anywhere in this country.

The inside felt like a cool oasis of gurgling, sparkling fish tanks and greenery. A host of Zeus brand products (they're sold at all three restaurants and at groceries in the Southeast) were on display at the front counter. From here, one can peek into the kitchen to see what the cooks are up to. Unlike so many restaurants, where food scents and cigarette smoke clog the air, the air at Zeus smelled super fresh and clean.

Our young server was friendly, professional and helpful. She was assisted throughout the evening by another young woman (presumably a trainee), but no explanation was given for her presence. This was intriguing, but harmless.

She provided a lengthy menu of evening specials, along with the regular menu, which is composed primarily of Greek specialties, with some Italian dishes, sandwiches and American favorites like chicken tenders and Buffalo wings tacked on.

There is something for everyone, kids included. Orders were taken promptly, but without any rushing involved.

I sipped an enjoyable glass of Boutari ($4.95) white wine while my guests settled into a couple of bottles of cool Aris (Greek) beer ($3.75 each).

Saganaki ($5.95) was the first appetizer to arrive. It was worthy of a solo performance, since part of its presentation involved being flamed at the table. One guest was sorry she had missed this small bit of dining drama during her trip to the ladies room, but I guess the flambÈ guy didn't notice her absence at the time.

She didn't miss all that much. His "opa" was half-hearted at best. Before I knew it, the anticipated joyful moment was over. The food, happily, was just beginning. The gooey, yummy melted Kasseri cheese tasted like a Greek fondue, this one generously and pleasantly doused with fresh lime. We used soft triangles of fresh pita bread to greedily scoop up every last delicious drop.

Another Greek specialty, spanakopita ($5.50), pole-vaulted its way straight to my heart with its mild mixture of spinach and feta encased in flaky phyllo dough.

Two non-Greek appetizers were generic, but non-offensive. They were super spicy Buffalo wings ($6.50) and slightly soggy fried oysters ($6.50). Eating these appetizers brought to mind the wisdom of the expression "When in 'Athens' do what the 'Greeks' do.

Since we went "Greek" the rest of the evening, we were in very good shape. All of the entrees we sampled and the baklava ($3.50) we had for dessert were very good. There was some confusion in the clearing of the plates and the issuance of occasionally missing cutlery, but it was twice remedied in a flash. The Zeus chicken ($10.75) was so seductive looking I would have eaten it without a fork, manners notwithstanding. Moist and flavored to the bone, and the restaurant has every right to refer to it as "famous."

The salmon special ($14.50) showcased a grilled, fat filet of fresh fish slathered in butter, lemon and generous spices that was very good. Better yet, however, was the gyro platter ($10.75). A large circle of soft pita was topped with tender slices of perfectly seasoned gyro meat, a generous smattering of raw, yellow onion and a stellar rendition of tzatziki, a Greek sauce made from yogurt, cucumbers, garlic and spices. Zeus' version had a hint of sweetness that worked wonders with the gyro meat, and was one of the richest I've sampled.

Entrees came with a choice of Greek potatoes, rice or French fries, a small Greek salad and a cup of lemon chicken soup. The homey Greek potatoes were studded with garlic and other vegetables.

The portions were astounding. All were good, particularly the smooth vinaigrette for the salad and the smoking hot, smooth and lemon-rich soup.

Zeus serves several desserts, but the perennial Greek favorite, baklava, called our collective names. As the classic dessert should be, it was flaky, buttery and sweet with honey.

Delicious, it would have been even better served hot (it was ice cold in the middle) or room temperature, which would be a more conducive temperature environment for the flavors to reach their zenith.

I'd say the Fokas team is on a winning streak. From the size of the crowd, good food and undeniable value, it seems Zeus is supplying exactly what Mount Pleasant residents are demanding.

It's very good stuff.

Opa!

ZEUS GRILL AND SEAFOOD